“Il Ritorno Dei Legionari”

Monday marked a year since Dad passed away, so he is understandably on my mind as of late. In sorting through Dad’s things this summer, I found a couple issues of Modern Languages Magazine that he helped produce in college.  The piece he wrote for the debut issue about Much Ado About Nothing was fairly typical for him, dissecting literature and finding something typically overlooked.  This, however, is the only piece of fiction I’ve found in his writing. 

Il Ritorno Dei Legionari

Cover of Modern Languages Magazine: A Journal for Studnets in all High Schools and Colleges, Vol. 1 No. 3, Summery 1947, SixpenceAnd so he had come to Naples.  Rome was delightful, too delightful; its glories too numerous to be viewed in the meagre fortnight at his disposal.  But there were other places, not to be neglected; it would be a crime to miss Capri.  So he was in Naples.  But wherever he went, it was an entirely new world to him: he had never before been abroad; and only just in time did he taste the luxury of the Mediterranean.  It was June, 1939.  We all know what we should find there now – the rubble-scattered towns and the cemeteries filled with rows of new crosses, which seem to be the only legacies left to us from the bankruptcy of war.

War?  All was peaceful then – yet war was abroad.  The whitewashed walls, that shine so brilliantly in the unclouded Italian sun – these were belaboured with slogans, from a simple “Via il Duce” to an excerpt from one of his speeches.  A news-boy passed him, waving a neatly-folded copy of the Corriere di Napoli, fresh from the Press.  He bought one.  He had never learned Italian, apart from a few conversational phrases, but it was simple enough to read – at any rate, the headlines.

Il ritorno dei Legionari… Tremila Legionari Reduci dalla Spagna.
Impossible to quote all of it – they had no notion of compressing or spacing a headline, but must needs extend it.  He counted the words of the “headline,” and there were forty-five.  He gathered that a large contingent of the Volunteers and the Fleet had arrived from Spain.  “Il Re Imperatore” and Mussolini had been in Naples to review the troops.  This he had missed: a pity, he thought, but the Fleet might be worth seeing.

The carabinieri at the barrier looked impressive, forbidding; but at the age of twenty, one is not impressed, still less forbidden.  And so he approached them, producing a gloriously inscribed card – an exotic masterpiece – which he had obtained from the Italian Tourist Agency in London.  Its purpose was to gain admittance to art galleries and places of amusement at half-price; no more then that.  But it served its purpose with the military.  Moreover, he was British – an English visitor.  They would admin him where they might suspect a German.

Go where he would, everything was impressive.  The submarines yonder – there must have been thirty of them, side by side: he must have a photo of those, if it were permitted.  Then there were the destroyers and the flagship R.I. “Gorizia” – that was certainly worth a snap.  But an official had been eyeing him for the last moment or two, and the camera slung over his shoulder was, he suspected, the reason.  And there were two more carabinieri at the foot of the gangway.

He paused.  The official approached, was very voluble, but quite incomprehensible.  A certain amount of gesticulation on both sides, however, confirmed his suspicion that he would not be allowed to take a photo.  But he was English, the official would see… and he disappeared about the battleship.  In a few moments he was back with another whose appearance was smarter, and whose arms were possessed of some gold braid.  His English was meagre, his message brief: it was forbidden to take a photograph; would the Englishman oblige by following him aboard ship.

The atmosphere was far from reassuring.  He was in a small and bare cabin – alone: there the officer had required him to wait.  The door was open, and the sun cast a sharp light into the centre, leaving the rest of the cabin quite dark.  Just outside was one of the carabinieri who had followed them when they came on board, and now stood silent, never glancing towards him, but always on the alert.  Overhead, an aeroplane passed, quite low.  He moved towards the door to look at it, changed his mind, and returned to the centre.

The guard stood to attention – another officer entered, obviously of superior rank.  His dress was perfect, his gold braid more extensive: surely he must be the captain.  At any rate, he was someone of importance.  His English was flawless: it was a great honour to receive an English visitor so soon after their return, victorious, from the Spanish affair.  He understood the Englishman had desired to take a photo – he regretted that it was out of the question.  But… he had not already taken any?  No?  That was very well; for there would have been difficulties.  If the Englishman would wait until his return… there would be no further delays….

Once more alone.  He glanced once or twice at his watch, but the seconds crept by reluctantly.  The guard did not move, except to flick a fly off his nose.  Was it permitted to smoke, he wondered.  But that reminded him – at least he could take a photo of Vesuvius, with the heavy smoke rolling from its summit; that is to say, once he was out of this spot.

But a sudden shadow fell across the door and he looked up.  The officer stood once again in the entrance, his arm slightly extended, his had gripping – an exquisite picture postcard of the battleship! 

 

Off the beaten path: Mixco Viejo

There’s a limited selection of Mayan ruins close enough to Antigua, Guatemala to be done as a day trip.  (While some travel agencies offer Tikal trips in 1-day, I recommend going for 2… it’s a lot to take in, starting with an hour from the Guatemala City airport, an hour flight to Flores, and an hour to Tikal itself, not to mention wait time at the airport.)  We had visited nearby Iximche a few years ago, and determined that Copán in neighboring Honduras was just a little too far for a single day outing.  Mixco Viejo, restored to its original Kaqchikel name of Chuwa Nima’Ab’äj in 2013, is not a normal tourist destination – we were only found one travel agency in Antigua that offered visits.  Since we had several family members interested in visiting, we hired a van and driver for the day. 

The first thing we noticed as we headed to Chuwa Nima’Ab’äj was that San Juan Sacatepéquez, a city we drove through, specializes in furniture.  Seriously, the number of billboards advertising furniture was amazing, echoed by the furniture stores as we drove through – the city specializes in wooden furniture.  Having discussed it with friends after the trip, it appears to be the best place in the country to shop for quality, yet low-priced, furniture. 

As we rode up the windy dirt road to the ruins, we noticed a couple food vendors at the entrance.  Being a warmish day, several of us stopped for granizadas, which Google Translate will tell you means hail, but is more accurately shaved ice with flavors added.  If you want something salty, request a lime granizada; other fruit flavors are sweet. 

Like most tourist sites in Guatemala, there are different prices for locals (including foreign residents) and tourists, encouraging Guatemalans to explore their heritage.  We visited on a holiday, so there were a decent number of locals at the site, several of whom hauled in coolers with lunch for their extended families (we were lazy – we left the cooler in the van), and the parking lot was full by the time we left after lunch.  There were at most a handful of foreign tourists.

View of ruins, trees, and hills at Mixco Viejo, GuatemalaAt some points of the day, there are guides available for tours; we didn’t notice one, but I also didn’t look for one.  There were vendors inside the ruins as well, selling food, and more importantly on a hot day, cold water and flavored ice.  And while a guide would have been nice, there were placards at assorted spots explaining the buildings and their layout within the site.  Every placard appears in three languages – Kaqchikel, Spanish, and English. 

These ruins are from the PostClassic Maya Civilization, having being founded in the 12th Century AD.  The city was still inhabited, and was thought to be the capital of Poqomam Maya civilization when the Spanish invaded in the 1500s.  As it turns out, it may have instead been the capital of the Chajoma Maya; there was some confusion when interpreting colonial records.  The mountain-top location was highly defensible, so when the Spanish defeated the residents after a month-long siege, they burned the city and relocated the survivors. 

The ruins themselves are in great condition for explorers, allowing you to climb a number of buildings, including some seriously steep stairs.  There are two different ball courts – smaller than Chichen Itza’s (meant for teams), but larger than Tikal’s (designed for a 1-on-1 game).  Depending on your interests, you could easily spend a day wandering through the scenic site.  Whether you choose to climb the building or not, expect to walk a decent amount – there’s more to this site than you can see from the entrance.  As with all archaeological sites, take nothing but photographs; leave nothing but footprints. 

Carving jade in Antigua, Guatemala

In Antigua, Guatemala, there are several jade shops; the oldest are Jade Maya and Casa del Jade. Both offer a selection of jewelry and carvings, as well as history of Mesoamerican jade use. Both guarantee the authenticity of their jade, which refers to jadeite and nephrite; the Chinese word for jade also includes soapstone, which is a softer stone, without a crystalline structure. Jade Maya has several copies of a massive book listing the last century or so of birthdays and the Mayan Nahual, or astrological sign, for each. Nearby flip cards display the symbol associated with each sign, with pertinent information including the animal. (Mine’s an armadillo.) Casa del Jade has a smaller display; both have assorted items engraved with the Nahual symbols.  Both stores sell coffee and provide samples.

2-hour workshop every day! What can I create? necklace, bracelet, magnet, keychain.  $49/Q392 *ask about our special pricesIn January, Casa de Jade opened a small section in their shop offering jade carving lessons.  The basic two-hour lesson gives participants the opportunity to select a piece of jade from a variety of colors (lavender, black, and light blue are only available in jadeite; the jade found in China is nephrite). A couple pencil scratches later, your stone is ready to shape in a scary-looking saw that uses diamond dust to cut the jade. Our instructor placed her fingers on the running blade – without a problem, as it’s specially designed for rock. When you have the basic shape cut, another machine is used to refine the shape by smoothing the edges and adding curves as desired. (The saw only does straight lines.)

Of the two hour lesson, getting to the refined shape might be twenty to thirty minutes. The next hour or more – black jade being the most difficult – will be spent polishing the stone using a progression of different sandpaper. Every step from the saw through polishing involves water, so we all wore stylish Casa del Jade aprons, and had towels handy for drying our stones (and ourselves).

The first round of polishing was the longest, trying to remove any visible scratches, particularly where cutting may have roughed up the stone a bit. The next three were progressively shorter, and eventually followed by shining the stone with a blend of diamond dust and water against leather. The black jade piece was waxed to make the engraving (coming right afterwards) stand out. 

The space holds four participants; three of us wanted engravings on our pieces and spent an extended amount of time drawing our designs on the stones with pens, then erasing bits with a wet wipe until it was perfected. We each opted to have the expert – our instructor – do the actual engraving with an engraving tool.  We were the last lesson of the day, so nobody objected when it ran a bit past the two hour mark.

Transition from raw jade pieces (one black, one light blue) to finished stones, the black one with engraving of Black Panther's necklace.The standard choices for the two-hour lesson are a pendant, keychain, bracelet, or magnet. The instructor worked with each participant to determine which stones needed holes and drilled those before the final round of polishing, then threated the pieces with a synthetic plastic at the end. The one magnet in the group was affixed with a mix from two tubes after engraving, with a warning that one of the tubes smelled like fish. 

We agreed that it was well worth the experience; the time it took to carve the jade was well spent, and were both happy with the pieces we made.  The instructor is fluent in English, so don’t worry if your Spanish isn’t up to understanding instructions. 

Road trip for literary heroines

Just after Christmas, I realized that there was an exhibit at the Putnam Museum titled Literary Heroines: Their Times, Their Fashions.  The museum had been on my radar for the past few months; it’s just across the border in Davenport, Iowa, about a two hours drive, and neither of us had been to Iowa before.  It was the next to last weekend of the exhibit, so our last chance to see it.

The Putnam website described the exhibit as “Strong and influential female protagonists spring from the pages of some of literature’s most iconic books with the Putnam’s the newest exhibit, Literary Heroines: Their Times, Their Fashions — open NOW!”

The exhibit featured “the apparel and interests of exciting and memorable characters, as they come to life through vignettes,” with a range of heroines form Hermione Granger (Harry Potter, of course), Laura Ingalls (Little House on the Prairie), and Scout (To Kill a Mockingbird).  I can only imagine how hard it was to narrow the list down to these twenty titles.  Every exhibit included information about the book and the heroine, along with a mannequin outfitted appropriately.

I came out of it with a reading list; while I’m familiar with most of the titles, I think I’ve only read three of them.  This is the list of books represented:

  • The Age of Innocence (Edith Wharton)
    Putnam Museum: Literary Heroines exhibit, featuring The Help in the foreground with a woman on a bicycle
    Putnam Museum: Literary Heroines exhibit
  • The Atomic City Girls (Janet Beard)
  • The Color Purple (Alice Walker)
  • Daughters of the Dust (Julie Dash)
  • The Forest Lover (Susan Vreeland)
  • Harry Potter series (JK Rowling)
  • The Help (Kathryn Stockett)
  • Jane Eyre (Charlotte Bronte)
  • Like Water for Chocolate (Laura Esquivel)
  • Little House series (Laura Ingalls Wilder)
  • Little Women (Louisa May Alcott)
  • Miss Fisher Mysteries (Kerry Greenwood)
  • Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker (Jennifer Chiaverini)
  • Memoirs of a Geisha (Arthur Golden)
  • The Nightingale (Kristin Hannah)
  • The Plague of Doves (Louise Erdrich)
  • Pride & Prejudice (Jane Austen)
  • Snow Flower and the Secret Fan (Lisa See)
  • To Kill a Mockingbird (Harper Lee)
  • Wonder Woman comic books

The rest of the museum was entertaining, with many hands on activities for children of all ages (including those of us who are children with jobs, aka “adults”).  We took the time to watch a 3-D movie about Oceans; it was one of three choices in the time we were there.  And we played a bit… infrared pictures are fun.

Putnam Museum: infrared picture of two people
Putnam Museum: infrared picture

Culinary Tourism

White-sided dolphin swimming beside our boat.
White-sided dolphin swimming beside our boat.

I flew back to California for work last week. I arrived Sunday morning and managed to just make it to Oceanside for a boat tour – theoretically, whale watching, but it’s not quite whale season yet. We did see three kinds of dolphins as well as some sea lions. That was the extent of my traditional tourism; the rest of my days were filled with work. Meal times, however, were a great time to explore some of the local options.

It began immediately following the boat ride, with a coupon to Harbor Fish & Chips.  I opted for the “small” – a single piece of fish – which was impressively sized; anything larger would have been too much for me.  When I arrived at my hotel, I realized it was well-placed for walking to dinner.  In addition to four restaurants down the block, there was an outlet mall across the street, with most of their restaurants at the end near the hotel.  That said, Pokemon Go rewards you for walking, so I almost always to the long route to and from dinner.

Clockwise from the upper left: seared ahi salad; Wild Alaskan sand dabs with sauteed kale and goat cheese, grilled zucchini, and sourdough bread; "small" fish and chips
Clockwise from the upper left: seared ahi salad; Wild Alaskan sand dabs with sauteed kale and goat cheese, grilled zucchini, and sourdough bread; “small” fish and chips

I had four opportunities to walk to dinner, and a goal of trying somewhere new each night.  Being so close to the ocean, I made a point of selecting fish more than I usually would.  I started with a fish taco and chicken tortilla soup at Rubio’s, a local fast food chain.  My second dinner was a seared ahi salad at BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse, another local chain whose name was new to me.  By the third night, I wanted a milkshake, so I walked to Ruby’s Diner, a few doors down from the Rubio’s, and had a delicious burger/fries/onion rings combo with my drink.  On my last free night, having walked past its “Now Open” sign for several days, I tried the Parmesan Crusted Wild Alaskan Sand Dabs at the recently remodeled King’s Fish House.

My last night had a work dinner scheduled, and the food was as delightful as the other nights, this time at the Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen.  I ordered one of the daily specials – a pasta with sausage that was made in house – after trying a couple appetizers with my co-workers.  I highly recommend their Brussels sprouts.  Well, and the rest of their food… the whole week’s cuisine was amazing.

The end of an era.

My father passed away this week, at a mere 91 years old.

Dad and his little sister
Dad and his little sister

Now I realize that to a lot of people, 91 is downright ancient. But Dad didn’t really start showing his age until the last few years, after being hit by a couple strokes. He climbed his last mountain, Pacaya, at 80, with my cousin’s family.  He stopped playing racquetball at 72, not because he couldn’t play anymore, but because there weren’t racquetball courts nearby.  And at 91, he was still happily traveling at every opportunity – he visited his little sister in England, went to his mother-in-law’s birthday party in Oregon, and was on a cruise in September when he fell ill.  As I said, a mere 91.

I can’t tell most of Dad’s story; I’ve only been around for about half of it.  But it started in Darlington, England before World War II, included military service just after the war, and was followed by a move to the United States after he completed his Library Science degree.  He spend a couple of years in Ohio, followed by some time at the University of Illinois, Penn State University, and Portland State University (yes, he went from one PSU to another), before finishing his career at the University of Miami in Florida.  A work trip brought him to Guatemala when I was in elementary school; the next summer, we came to Guatemala to learn Spanish.

Our family has never quite left since then, as we moved here for junior high with visits between here and Miami.  By the time Dad retired, they had a house here, which they used as a base to help raise some of the grandchildren while traveling around the world.  We are left with a great number of books, including an extensive Jerome K. Jerome collection, whose bibliography Dad worked on for years.  Dad was rather excited the day I cracked open one of his English copies of Three Men in a Boat and found a printing mistake he didn’t have cataloged.

He also collected stamps, primarily ones featuring Catholic saints, and was a 50-year member of the American Philatelic Society.  In his younger years, he also enjoyed rock climbing; he took us once when I was young.  (I enjoyed that adventure far more than my sister did.)  When I visited Devil’s Tower a few years ago and saw people climbing the sides of it, I asked him if he had done that.  He had visited, but never climbed it.

As a child, I was spoiled not only by living in a house with thousands of books – and free access to all of them – but with access to an incredible research library as well.  My sister and I were frequent visitors at the university’s library throughout our childhood, so I was quite familiar with it by the time I started college.  I’m sure Dad hadn’t read all of those books, but if you ever played a trivia game with him, you might have thought he had.  Even a year ago, I was still losing to him at trivia.

He was fiercely independent, rarely requesting assistance and frequently refusing it outright when offered for something he thought he could still do.  He appreciated a fine drink – wine, whiskey, or good beer – but would politely accepted cheaper alternatives, like whatever beer Mom drinks.  He  took advantage of Miami’s climate to light up the Big Green Egg year round, and grilled a fabulous steak.

He will be missed.

The Dan Camp Journey

Four years ago, I embarked on my first drive to Dan, or Black Belt, Camp, with a carload of teenagers (none of them mine) and the vague notion that I’d be doing karate all weekend. Our first stop was a rest area on I-65 in Indiana, where one person slowed down long enough to receive copies of the New Testament for all of us. That resulted in some interesting car conversations as we proceeded to a popular (with our karate family) lunch spot. Beyond that, well, we stayed up late, got up early, and did karate pretty much all weekend. There were team-building exercises, some general silliness, and new friendships that came out of the weekend. Every year since has been a different adventure, with a new mix of driving companions and the same overall giddyness that comes from doing karate for a whole weekend with two hundred or so of your closest friends.

Strawberry milkshake in a mason jar at The Farmhouse
Strawberry milkshake in a mason jar… is that enough whipped cream?

This year was no different in that respect. After years of driving by, both to Dan Camp and other events towards or past Indianapolis, and only having stopped at the shop before, we ate lunch at The Farmhouse at Fair Oaks Farm. If you’ve driven south on I-65 recently, you’ll know that it’s hard to miss the billboards for Fair Oaks Farm; between the restaurant and the farm, there were probably a dozen before we got there. (Driving north, there are two that tell you that you missed it and you can turn around at the next exit.) This is unquestionably the first time I’ve been served a milkshake in a mason jar. They are, as it turns out, the perfect size. The meal was delightful, prefaced by some fresh cornbread and well, no, we didn’t make it to dessert. But I generally consider dessert to be optional when I have a milkshake.

After lunch, as I mockingly pointed out the scenic corn and soy (and more corn and soy, as this is the midwest), I noticed a faint rainbow out of the corner of my eye. It wasn’t until my companions (who weren’t driving) looked that we realized there was a double rainbow, with a far brighter one hiding below the faded one I had spotted.

Beyond the exciting weekend activities – have you ever played balloon “soccer” on a windy day with multiple balloons per team, and only karate moves allowed to propel the balloons? – the weather was just about perfect. Two years ago, there was a downpour along with some exciting thunder and lighting on the Saturday afternoon, which forced a break in our outdoor activities for a bit. This year, there was a bit of rain on our drive Friday, and a light sprinkling Saturday afternoon.

Foggy morning from the suspension bridge
Looking at the giant slide from the suspension bridge, through the fog and a spider web.

Sunday morning, as I began packing the car, I enjoyed the fog that had settled in overnight. I went back to the cabin for my phone, then walked onto the suspension bridge to get some photos. (The bridge is one of those things that you either love or hate about the camp; it bounces quite a bit when everybody is lined up, crossing the river.) Just me and my arachnid friends.

Spider and web with a foggy morning river in the background.
Pretty spider and web with a foggy morning in the background.

My next great adventure

My next great adventure starts today. (Well, last week by the time you read this.) Two days after my official termination date at my previous job, I accepted a job offer. For my first week of work, I’m flying to San Diego to meet my co-workers at the main office. This is my first visit to California as an adult; I don’t count the couple times I’ve stopped in the San Francisco airport.

One of the important items on my prep list was finding the nearest WTSDA dojang. As it happens, the instructor there was the guest master when I pre-tested for my black belt in February. My karate uniform was actually the first thing I packed. I’m also staying about 10 minutes from a beach, so I packed my bathing suit – and sunscreen! – as well. Other than that, it’s work clothes, pajamas, and toiletries. Oh, and two books – of for each flight. I plan to re-read Anno Dracula on the way out and The Lightning Thief on the return trip.


The work week went well, the extra stuff went almost as planned.  I attended a great karate class, and tried an assortment of interesting restaurants while I was in California.  I didn’t go swimming, but I did dip my feet in the ocean at sunset my last night there.  I resisted going to Legoland after work – theme park prices make more sense as an all day outing.  And, except for the transit to and from the airport, I wasn’t near downtown San Diego, so I didn’t get to see any of the excitement surrounding the San Diego Comic-Con.

Lovely gardenias in Carlsbad
Lovely gardenias in Carlsbad

What did thrill me was the gardenias near the dojang; the nearby shopping center had them planted all around the edges of the parking lot, so getting out of the car, I could smell them immediately.  Oh, and I found a game store.  (Of course I did.)

Exploring Portland

Powell’s City of Books, Science Fiction & Fantasy section. I looked in other rooms; I shopped in this one.

I moved from Portland when I was five, so I only have vague memories of when I lived there.  I have visited enough over the years to have some favorites; when I go back to visit friends and family, I try to do a mix of exploring new places and visiting old, familiar ones.  An absolute must is Powell’s City of Books, which is their main location.  You can pick between whatever’s available according to your taste, be it paperback, hard cover, new or used, because Powell’s shelves then all together.  When I was there in 2015, I had a shopping list of classic science fiction books; I was able to find all of them.

We met friends for dinner a couple blocks away from Powell’s, at McMenamin’s Ringlers Pub.  We were so busy having fun, I forgot to take any food photos while we were there.  Suffice to say I’d be happy to eat there again.

Not actually in Portland… lava tubes at Ape Caves, Mt. St. Helens, Washington state

The exploration part of this trip was a trip into Washington state to the Mt. St. Helens Lava Tube.  I was discussing my upcoming trip to Portland with a (now former) co-worker, who told me about the lava tubes.  It was an amazingly scenic drive – as much of the area around Portland is – and we opted for the short, easy walk down the tubes, rather than the extreme

Bridge of the Gods, north of Portland, Oregon

one going up.  Our initial plan was to follow this with a trip to Multnomah Falls, but everybody else was already there – the parking was full, and the freeway exit closed.  We were quite hungry, so revamped our plan to eat at a restaurant underlooking (it’s like overlooking, but we could see the underside of it) the Bridge of the Gods.

The main purpose of this visit was my grandmother’s birthday party, which was a fabulous reunion of family members and friends.  After the party, with only an hour or so before it closed, I went to the Portland Saturday Market and then to the Lan Su Chinese Garden.  Sadly, I was still quite full from the amazing food at the party and couldn’t try anymore food at either location.

Lan Su Chinese Garden, Portland, Oregon

I did stop at the teahouse in the Chinese Garden, operated by The Tao of Tea, to pick up some Rose Petal Black tea, which is an all-time favorite of mine.  I also watched a drawbridge go up, which is one of those fun things to do if you’re not one of the cars stuck waiting on the bridge.

A drawbridge in Portland

But all good things must come to an end, especially with a houseful of cats waiting at home and a week of organizing before starting my new job.  We did find a delightful farm-to-table restaurant at the airport called The Country Cat where we bought a filling lunch.  This turned out to be fairly important… we were getting ready for bed after arriving home and realized that because of the time difference and flight time, we never ate dinner.  Oops.

Planning a trip to Niagara Falls

I may post more about our trip to Niagara Falls on later days, but here are some of the thoughts that went into planning it.

Transit

Selecting an airline isn’t usually difficult; Southwest is my preferred airline if it services an airport in the right area. Even when we fly carry-on only, like we did for our Philadelphia trip, I like the option of checking bags for free. The pricing is almost always comparable to the other airlines, so it comes down to selecting times I like for direct flights. (Chicago to Buffalo is just over an hour, an indirect flight doesn’t really make sense.)

I researched options for getting from the Buffalo airport to the Canadian side of Niagara Falls. Quickly dismissed was the Greyhound option; that’s from downtown Buffalo, and only at set times, so it would have required too many transfers. The airport shuttle was more appealing until I realized that I could rent a car for less than it would cost for both our fares one-way. Our lodging included free parking, so renting a car turned out to be a no-brainer.

On the other hand, I didn’t want to drive around all weekend, or bother to pay for parking multiple times in the Fallsview area. We picked up 48-hour WeGo passes, parked the rental car by our cabin, and rode the bus into the downtown area multiple times. When I returned the rental car, they thought I had filled the gas tank because I had driven it so little.

Lodging

I’ve had a KOA (Kampgrounds of America) membership since 2013, when we went on a 13-day road trip; two-thirds of our nights were at KOA sites. On a whim, I checked to see if there was a KOA in the Niagara Falls area. As it turns out, there’s one on each side of the Falls. Having never visited Canada before, I was set at staying on the Canadian side. I didn’t really want to pack a tent (even with free baggage), so I booked a cabin… well, a Kamping Kabin. Because it’s at a Kampground.

KOA Kamping Kabin - outside and inside views
KOA Kamping Kabin – outside and inside views

Camping cabins are minimalist in nature. There’s a roof over your head, a door that locks, beds (one double and a bunk bed), and a table with a chair. There’s also a picnic table and seating on the deck. You bring your own linens or sleeping bags, which was most of our luggage needs for this trip. You also have to walk outside to get to the bathroom and the shower stalls. (Pack your own towels too.) In good weather, this works out nicely… and we had amazing weather at Niagara Falls last weekend.

Activities

Niagara Falls - Horseshoe Falls at night, when the falls are lit up with multicolor lights
Niagara Falls – Horseshoe Falls at night

Other than “see the Falls,” I had no idea what we would be doing in the area for two and a half days. I reached out to a friend in Toronto who mentioned that there’s a wax museum with movie stars in the area. Actually, there are two. And a rock stars one. While researching the museum, I discovered that they offered a Fun Pass that combined the museum, the SkyWheel (2 rides if you buy online!), some virtual rides, and a choice of indoor (wizards) or outdoor (dinosaurs) mini-golf. The pass allows you to do each activitiy once, any time within a year from when you activate it. Since we have no immediate plans to return to the area, we did them all Friday and Saturday.

Everything else we did was based on what we found when we got there. We ate at a mix of local (Tim Horton’s, Queen Victoria Place Restaurant) and speciality chain restaurants (Margaritaville and Hard
Rock), watched the nightly fireworks over the Falls, spent some time at the local Ripley’s Believe It or Not museum, and spent Sunday morning at Bird Kingdom. We did some shopping, and then visited the Falls from the U.S. side Sunday afternoon before flying home.